Enenhnta Epta - To Periodiko ths Politistikhs Prwteyoysas Teyxos 7o

Olga Tsanthla

«O Ellhnas, kyria moy, prepei na arxisei na foraei to kapelo kai gia logoys ais8htikoys kai gia logoys ygeias. Mas prostateyei apo thn ygrasia, to kryo kai th broxh, poy prokaloyn igmoritida kai ponokefaloys. O wrila mazi me thn antibiwsh symboyleyei: «Fora kai ena kapelo! Osoi to foresan sw8hkan. Mia dokimh 8a sas peisei».

To na foreseis ena kapelo shmera 8elei eidika apo8emata antoxhs, gia na antimetwpiseis ta peiraxtika sxolia, tis empneysmenes h oxi atakes, ta aporhmena blemmata toy perigyroy, poy prospa8oyn na e3hghsoyn th retro soy dia8esh. Se oloys aresei kai kaneis den to foraei. Oloi to 8ewroyn epitomh toy sofistike kai ekleptysmenoy ntysimatos, alla arketoi, molis to entopisoyn se xwroys diaforetikoys apo tis selides twn periodikwn, ta film noyar h tis epidei3eis modas, aporoyn kai e3istantai: «Ma poy nomizei oti brisketai;».

O k. Margariths Iwannidhs, idiokthths toy katasthmatos kapelwn «Stamiwn», speydei na me parhgorhsei: «Ta teleytaia xronia eytyxws parathrw strofh sthn agora toy kapeloy. Oi neoi an8rwpoi arxizoyn na to blepoyn me diaforetiko mati».

Kai synexizei, afhgoymenos merikes apo tis anamnhseis toy kai en syntomia to istoriko ths epixeirhshs:

«O pateras moy Stamaths Iwannidhs, idryths ths etaireias, einai aytos poy dinontas ta arxika toy onomatos toy sxhmatise thn epwnymia «Stamiwn», firma poy apotypw8hke stis perissoteres tragiaskes poy fore8hkan sth 8essalonikh.

O «Stamiwn» 3ekinaei to 1917, epoxh poy o plh8ysmos ths htan ena e8nologiko pazl apo Ellhnes, Aggloys, Galloys, Toyrkoys, Ebraioys. Anamesa sta toyrkika fesia, sta eyrwpaika hmichla kai sta ebraika «kipa», ws amigws ellhniko 3exwrizei to kapelo twn naytikwn mas, twn caradwn. Ekeinh thn epoxh foriotan poly h tragiaska kai to perifhmo, pleon, kaboyraki. Tragiaska foroyse o agrotokosmos, h eparxia kyriws, h opoia zhtoyse ena klasiko kapelo gia ka8e mera, gia th doyleia. To xeimerino kapelo, an kai to foroysan oloi, eixe mikroterh zhthsh. Ta eidh mas htan laikhs katanalwshs. Oloi foroysan tragiaska «Stamiwn». Ta kataskeyazame emeis, alla gia merikoys kaloys pelates poy zhtoysan kati polyteles, kaname kai eisagwges apo thn Italia. Oi gynaikes eixan tis dikes toys kapeloydes, etsi apo to magazi mas pernoysan kyriws andres.

Alla thn idia xronia poy 3ekinhse o «Stamiwn», to 1917, kahke apo th megalh pyrkagia. To ergostasio mas, poy briskotan sto Koyle Kafe, katastrafhke olosxerws, alla to 3anasthsame se mia ebdomada».

«Prin to '40 eixame kai thn «koykoybagia», to gnwsto sxoliko kapelo twn ma8htwn ths epoxhs: emoiaze ligo me to naytiko kai eixe mia koykoybagia me syrma epanw sto geiso -htan san ta germanika stratiwtika kapela. Ta kapela-koykoybagies ta kathrghse o Gewrgios Papandreoy.

Sthn Katoxh perioristhke poly h doyleia. Eixan apomeinei mono tria tessera atoma sto magazi mas, sthn Iwnos Dragoymh, se ena mikro grafeiaki, opoy eixe metafer8ei h paragwgh kai h emporia. Meta, apo ekei phgame sto ekaton penhnta ena. Apo to 1973 kaname kai to ergostasio ston dromo ths 8ermhs, opoy shmera brisketai h paragwgh kai h apo8hkh. Omws to kapelo, stadiaka, «epefte». Prin apo peripoy eikosi xronia hmoyn sthn A8hna kai kapoia stigmh parapone8hka ston Lampropoylo oti oi paraggelies kai h katanalwsh htan elaxistes. Me boytaei apo to xeri kai me bgazei e3w ston dromo sth Stadioy.

«As katsoyme gia 10´ lepta ston dromo kai as metrhsoyme posoi forane kapelo», moy leei. «Posoi perasan me kapelo; Oyte enas», apantaei monos toy.

O antagwnismos shmera einai megalos kai exoyme diathrhsei ws eidos paragwghs mas mono ta ca8ina. Ola ta alla einai eisagomena».

Gia thn istoria toy kapeloy kai to antikeimeno ths epixeirhshs milaei o k. Xaideytos Lagogiannhs, diey8ynths toy pilopwleioy «Stamiwn», o opoios anaferetai me e3airetika endiaferonta stoixeia sto curriculum vitae toy kapeloy sth 8essalonikh :

«Shmantikh katanalwsh eixe to agrotiko kapelo, ena ca8ino gazwto poy foroysan oi ergates stoys agroys me megalo geiso, gia na profylassontai apo ton hlio.

H tragiaska htan ftiagmenh apo yfasma, enw to f8hnotero kaboyraki kataskeyazotan apo malli kai to pio akribo apo kastor. Oi ftwxoi foroysan synh8ws tragiaska kai aplo kaboyraki, enw oi pio eyporoi epishs kaboyraki, alla akribotero kai pio komco.

Tote o kosmos agoraze pente me e3i kapela ton xrono. To ka8e kapelo apaitoyse e3eidikeymeno texnith, poy eprepe na 3erei pws na to piasei, pws na to doylecei, na 3erei dhladh olh thn diadikasia. H doyleia ginotan sto xeri xwris mhxanes. Gia na ftia3ei ena kapelo eprepe na to perasei apo deka diaforetika stadia. Yphrxe mystikismos. Ton tropo epe3ergasias ton gnwrizan elaxistoi, mono aytoi poy ergazontan mesa sto ergasthrio. Ta 15-20 atoma poy doyleyan mesa sth biotexnia, ekanan apo 40 ews 50 kapela thn hmera kai h3eran na xeirizontai oles tis poiothtes, apo tis pio akribes mexri tis pio f8hnes. Ta ligotero akriba tote, htan ta kapela ryzioy, poy kataskeyazontan apo mia lepth tainia ryzioy, 14 peripoy xiliostwn, h opoia sth synexeia gazwnotan. Ayto to eidos kapeloy shmera poylietai poly akriba stis kalyteres agores toy kosmoy. Polytelestera 8ewroyntai shmera ta kapela apo leza, opws kai apo trixes antilophs kai lagoy».

To kapelo yphr3e panta a3esoyar-fetix ths gynaikeias gkarntarompas toso gia tis aples gynaikes oso kai gia tis femmes fatales, poy dokimazan thn aytopepoi8hsh toys se lampra soirees, se yposxetikes esperides, sth bolta kai stis koinwnikes episkeceis. Saten kai araxnoyfanta yfasmata, meta3wtes kordeles, beloydina mpor, polyxrwma an8h, polles fores ola ayta mazi sto idio kapelo, poy gia na anadeix8ei xreiazotan ta epide3ia daxtyla mias empneysmenhs kapeloys, apo ekeines poy to talento toys stolise ta gynaikeia kefalia ths mesopolemikhs 8essalonikhs.

Me thn parakmh toy kapeloy nayaghsan mesa sthn istoria kai oi kapeloydes. Oyte mia apo tis tote perifhmes kapeloydes den zei shmera sth 8essalonikh. Kai me to xamo toys e3afanisthke kai to kata paraggelia xeiropoihto gynaikeio kapelo kai h gohteia toy.

«To gynaikeio kapelo eixe megalh diafora apo to andriko», synexizei o k. Lagogiannhs. «Emeis panta synergazomastan me tis kapeloydes, oi opoies eite erxontan kai promh8eyontan apo mas thn prwth ylh poy htan ena aplo kapelo, h erxontan pelatisses kai agorazan to kapelo kai meta to phgainan sthn kapeloy gia to garnirisma poy mporoyse na perilambanei o,ti mporei na fantastei kaneis: beloyda, kordeles, yfasmata, organtzes.

Me ton gynaikeio «pilo» asxolh8hkame kyriws meta ton polemo, otan synexizotan h zhthsh toy. Siga siga omws h katanalwsh toy ef8ine. O kosmos allaze, to ntysimo arxize na ginetai pio aplo kai do8hke emfash sto aneto styl.

Sth dekaetia toy '70 ay3h8hke h zhthsh toy 8erinoy me thn anapty3h toy toyrismoy ki emeis strafhkame sto toyristiko kalokairino kapelo.

Sth 8essalonikh yphrxan arketes mikres epixeirhseis apo poly palia poy kataskeyazan kai emporeyontan kapela, otan ayta htan akomh eidos eyreias katanalwsews. Oi perissoteres apo aytes kai alles antistoixes me th dikh mas epixeirhseis me ta xronia ekleisan».

«Apo poly palia yphrxan sth 8essalonikh ergostasia opws toy Arianoytsoy kai sthn A8hna to Pil-Pol. Mexri kai to '50 to kapelo foriotan ka8hmerina», 8ymatai o k. Iwannhs Mponelhs, apogonos toy Damianoy Mponelh, o opoios me thn prwth Die8nh Ek8esh ths 8essalonikhs, to 1928, egkainiazei to katasthma Boneli, xwro poy arxika 3ekinhse ws ka8aristhrio kapelwn. Me ta xronia, alla kai thn eyreia katanalwsh kapelwn, to magazi arxizei na epekteinetai kai sthn emporia toy eidoys me eisagwges apo Italia, Gallia kai Ispania.

«To kalokairino ca8aki», 8ymatai o k. Mponelhs «legotan «panamas», giati h ca8a toy erxotan apo ton Panama. Htan ena poly akribo kai xarakthristiko olostroggylo mpompe -xwris koilwma dhladh- kapelo me spasimo sth mesh. O «panamas» 3exwrize giati eixe ayto to xarakthristiko styl me to katebasmeno geiso, poy kalypte elafrws to proswpo.

Allo idiaitero sxedio htan to «Mporsalino» apo kastori, isws to pio akribo. To «Mporsalino» 3exwrize ws styl, yphrxe omws kai firma «Borsalino» sthn Italia poy dystyxws ekleise. Antistoixa ergostasia htan to aystriako «Habig» kai to amerikaniko «Station».

«To kapelo omws, pera apo to goysto, th moda, tis poiothtes kai to styl, exei kai ka8ara praktikh a3ia: einai parallhla ena teleio prostateytiko a3esoyar, poy mas profylassei apo thn ygrasia, to kryo, kati to opoio den lambanoyme sobara ypoch. An kai o Ellhnas exei pare3hghsei poly to kapelo, me megalh moy xara blepw nea palikaria kai kopeles na to zhtoyn. Bebaia, oxi to klasiko kapelo ths giagias me to belo, alla sxedia monterna, apla, eykoloforeta, poy mporoyn na metafer8oyn, na diplw8oyn, opws ta mperedakia. Genika h neolaia exei metastrafei eytyxws, estw kai pros to spor».

Exei dikio o k. Mponelhs. Ayth h metastrofh pragmati isxyei. Pairnw ena platygyro apo th bitrina, to forw epideiktika, 8eatrika, kai speydw ston ka8refth. Pozarw me filareskeia. Den eimai idia h Gkreta Gkarmpo;

Epistrofh sthn prohgoymenh selida..

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