Topic: voa Subject: VIEWS FROM SARAJEVO, KOSICE & TIRANA By DOUGLAS ROBERTS/BARRY WOOD/WAYNE COREY/GENEVA/PRAGUE/VIENNA From: "Demetrios E. Paneras" DATE=3/29/95 TYPE=REPORTER'S NOTEBOOK NUMBER=4-08217 TITLE=VIEWS FROM SARAJEVO, KOSICE & TIRANA BYLINE=DOUGLAS ROBERTS/BARRY WOOD/WAYNE COREY TELEPHONE=619-1101 DATELINE=GENEVA/PRAGUE/VIENNA EDITOR=PAMELA TAYLOR/PHIL HAYNES CONTENT= // INSERTS AVAILABLE FROM TAPE LIBRARY /// CART: THEME ESTABLISH THEN UNDER HOST: WELCOME TO REPORTER'S NOTEBOOK, A WEEKLY MAGAZINE SHOW FEATURING REPORTS BY, OR CONVERSATIONS WITH, VOA CORRESPONDENTS AROUND THE GLOBE ABOUT THEIR EXPERIENCES IN THE FIELD. CART: THEME UP FULL AND UNDER HOST: I'M YOUR HOST, PAMELA TAYLOR. THIS WEEK WE GO TO CENTRAL AND EAST EUROPE. DOUGLAS ROBERTS HAS JUST RETURNED FROM A VISIT TO THE BOSNIAN CAPITAL OF SARAJEVO -- A CITY LONGING FOR PEACE BUT STILL PREPARED FOR WAR. BARRY WOOD THEN TAKES US INSIDE AN OLD SOVIET-BUILT STEEL WORKS IN EASTERN SLOVAKIA FOR A LOOK AT HOW WORKERS THERE ARE ADJUSTING TO THE PROCESS OF TRANSITION FROM STATE CONTROL TO PRIVATIZATION. AND FINALLY, WE WILL HAVE A REPORT FROM CORRESPONDENT WAYNE COREY ABOUT HIS RECENT EXPERIENCES IN TIRANA, THE CAPITAL OF ALBANIA, A PLACE RARELY VISITED BY OUTSIDERS BEFORE THE FALL OF COMMUNISM. HOST: FIRST WE GO TO DOUG ROBERTS IN GENEVA, WHO SAYS WERE IT NOT FOR AN ON-AGAIN, OFF-AGAIN U-N AIRLIFT, SARAJEVO WOULD BE EFFECTIVELY CUT OFF FROM THE OUTSIDE WORLD. INSTEAD, HE FOUND THAT THE BOSNIAN TRUCE NEGOTIATED BY FORMER U-S PRESIDENT JIMMY CARTER EARLIER THIS YEAR HAS BROUGHT A SEMBLANCE OF NORMALCY: TEXT: THEY CALL IT "MAYBE AIRLINES", THE ERRATICALLY SCHEDULED U-N FLIGHTS TO SARAJEVO AND OTHER BALKAN CAPITALS. THE NAME SEEMS APPROPRIATE--MAYBE YOU'LL LEAVE ON TIME, BUT MAYBE YOU WON'T. MAYBE, YOU WON'T LEAVE AT ALL. AND YOU MAY WELL BE GLAD YOU DIDN'T, ESPECIALLY IF SOME ANONYMOUS GUNMAN IN SARAJEVO HAS AGAIN DECIDED TO TAKE POT SHOTS AT U-N PLANES. IT HAS HAPPENED MANY TIMES BEFORE AND DOUBTLESS WILL AGAIN. BUT THE MEN AND WOMEN OF THE U-N PROTECTION FORCE SEEM TO TAKE IT ALL IN STRIDE. T-SHIRTS AND BASEBALL CAPS WITH THE SLOGAN "MAYBE AIRLINES" ARE ON SALE IN WHAT PASSES FOR THE DEPARTURE LOUNGE AT THE U-N AIRBASE JUST OUTSIDE THE CROATIAN CAPITAL, ZAGREB . THE LOUNGE IS A LARGE TENT, WITH A FEW WOODEN BENCHES AND A SMALL SNACK BAR. THERE IS NO ONE TO TAKE YOUR TICKETS. THERE ARE NO TICKETS. THE ONLY REQUIREMENT FOR SARAJEVO-BOUND PASSENGERS IS A HELMET AND A FLAK JACKET. IT WAS MID-AFTERNOON BY THE TIME WE REACHED SARAJEVO. THE AIRPORT PERIMETER IS PROTECTED BY HUGE MOUNDS OF EARTH, AND THE CONTROL TOWER AND OTHER BUILDINGS SEEMED RELATIVELY IN TACT. BUT THE WRECK OF A CARGO PLANE SITS AT ONE END OF THE TARMAC. OH, THAT WAS THE WHISKEY FLIGHT, EXPLAINED ONE OF MY CO-PASSENGERS; BRINGING IN SUPPLIES, INCLUDING SCOTCH, FOR THE PEACEKEEPERS WHEN IT SKIDDED OFF THE RUNWAY IN A SNOWSTORM. YOU SHOULD HAVE SEEN ALL THE BRAVE VOLUNTEERS - HE QUIPPED - RACING OUT TO HELP OFF-LOAD THE PRECIOUS CARGO. THE U-N RUNS A SHUTTLE SERVICE FROM THE AIRPORT INTO THE CITY. AN ARMORED PERSONNEL CARRIER RATHER THAN A BUS SNAKED THROUGH A SUBURBAN BATTLEGROUND KNOWN AS DOBRINJA, AND INTO THE HEART OF SARAJEVO. FROM U-N HEADQUARTERS AT THE MAIN POST OFFICE, IT WAS ONLY A FEW MINUTES RIDE ALONG A BROAD AVENUE TO MY HOTEL. LIKE ALMOST EVERYWHERE IN SARAJEVO, THERE ARE VIRTUALLY NO WINDOWPANES IN THE HOTEL ROOMS. STRIPS OF PLASTIC SHEETING EMBLAZONED WITH THE LOGO OF THE U-N REFUGEE AGENCY HAVE REPLACED THE GLASS PANES, LONG SINCE SHATTERED. TAPE: CUT # 1 SARAJEVO MARKETPLACE (UP FOR :05 & UNDER AND OPEN UP AT *) RUNS [:27] TEXT: THE OPEN-AIR MARKET IN THE HEART OF SARAJEVO'S OLD QUARTER. [PAUSE*] IT WAS A SCENE OF CARNAGE AND HORROR JUST A YEAR AGO WHEN A SUDDEN SERB SHELLING ATTACK LEFT DOZENS DEAD AND WOUNDED. THE BLOODSTAINS HAVE LONG SINCE WASHED AWAY, LIKE SO MANY OTHERS IN THIS BELEAGUERED CITY. THE WOODEN STALLS HAVE BEEN REPAIRED OR REPLACED; AND THE MARKET IS OPEN AND FUNCTIONING AGAIN. THERE WAS HARDLY A CORNUCOPIA OF GOODS ON DISPLAY. FRESH VEGETABLES WERE CONSPICUOUSLY ABSENT. THE VICTORY GARDENS THAT SEEMED TO DOT VIRTUALLY EVERY SPARE PATCH OF GROUND IN THE CITY WILL PROVIDE LETTUCE AND CABBAGE, CARROTS, TOMATOES AND EVEN SOME PEPPERS IN THE SPRING AND SUMMER. BUT IN THE WINTER MONTHS, POTATOS, ONIONS AND A FEW MUSHROOMS SEEMED THE ONLY VEGETABLES AVAILABLE. THERE WAS PLENTY OF MEAT, AS WELL AS EGGS, CANNED GOODS, EVEN NUTS. AND HAWKERS OFFERED BOTTLES OF WINE AND BRANDY. PRICES WERE HIGH, AND THE GERMAN DEUTSCHE-MARK WAS THE ONLY CURRENCY CHANGING HANDS. THE BOSNIAN DINAR IS VIRTUALLY VALUELESS, ACCEPTED ONLY TO PURCHASE BREAD AND NEWSPAPERS. SARAJEVANS SOMEHOW MANAGE TO GET BY, BUT IT WAS DIFFICULT TO SEE HOW. EQUALLY MYSTERIOUS IN A CITY UNDER SEIGE WAS WHERE THE GOODS IN THE MARKETPLACE COME FROM? MY DRIVER, HUSSEIN HADZOVIC, PROVIDEED AN ANECDOTAL EXPLANATION, POINTING TO THE DRINKS ON A TABLE IN ONE OF SARAJEVO'S MANY CAFES. THAT GLASS OF MILK, HE SAID --- THAT'S HUMANITARIAN AID. THE CAN OF ORANGE SODA HAD FRENCH MARKINGS, MEANING IT WAS SMUGGLED OUT OF A U-N WAREHOUSE TO BE SOLD ON THE BLACK MARKET. AND THE COLA? BOTTLED IN CROATIA SAID HUSSEIN, SO IT MUST HAVE COME IN ON THE BLUE ROUTE OR MAYBE THROUGH THE TUNNEL. THE BLUE ROUTE IS THE U-N CONTROLLED ROAD WHICH RUNS ACROSS THE TARMAC OF SARAJEVO AIRPORT, LINKING THE CAPITAL WITH GOVERNMENT-HELD TERRITORY A FEW KILOMETERS TO THE SOUTHEAST. SERB COMMANDERS AGREED TO LET SARAJEVANS USE THE BLUE ROUTE AS PART OF THE NEW YEAR'S TRUCE ACCORD. AND MORE THAN 100-THOUSAND TOOK ADVANTAGE OF THE OPPORTUNITY IN FEBRUARY ALONE. IT IS NOT BIG ENOUGH FOR VEHICLES, BUT A SYSTEM OF RAILS AND PUSH CARTS ALLOWS EACH PERSON WHO PASSES THROUGH TO BRING IN A SMALL AMOUNT OF SUPPLIES. THE BOSNIAN ARMY HAS A MONOPOLY ON TRAFFIC THROUGH THE TUNNEL. IT IS SAID TO BE A MAJOR MONEY EARNER. OFF-DUTY SOLDIERS ARE ALLOWED TO PASS THROUGH IT, AND BRING BACK GOODS TO BE SOLD IN THE MARKET. SARAJEVO'S MAYOR, TARIQ KUPUSOVIC, DIDN'T WANT TO TALK ABOUT THE TUNNEL'S OTHER FUNCTIONS -- THE FACT THAT AN ELECTRICITY CABLE AND A DIESAL FUEL LINE NOW PASS THROUGH IT, EASING THE GOVERNMENT'S RELIANCE ON RESOURCES THAT REMAIN IN SERB HANDS. THE MAYOR'S RELUCTANCE STEMMED FROM THE BOSNIAN GOVERNMENT'S STRONG COMMITMENT TO AN ETERNALLY UNITED SARAJEVO. ANYTHING THAT HINTS AT A PERMANENT DIVISION OF THE CITY, SAY GOVERNMENT OFFICIALS, ONLY PLAYS INTO SERB HANDS. BUT THE FACT REMAINS THAT FOR THE FIRST TIME IN YEARS, EVERY SARAJEVO HOUSEHOLD HAS ELECTRIC POWER. THE SUPPLY IS STRICTLY LIMITED, JUST ENOUGH FOR A FEW LIGHT BULBS AND A TELEVISION SET. ANYONE WHO EXCEEDS THE QUOTA FACES AN INSTANT CUT-OFF. BUT FOR SARAJEVANS ACCUSTOMED TO MONTHS OF NOTHING BUT CANDLE LIGHT, IT IS A MAJOR STEP IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION. TAPE: CUT # 3 SOUND OF SCHOOL (UP FOR :05 AND UNDER TO *) RUNS [:11] TEXT: SCHOOLS WERE OPEN AGAIN -- AFTER AN EXTENDED WINTER BREAK WHEN POWER SUPPLIES WERE NOT SUFFICIENT TO KEEP THE BUILDINGS HEATED. WE HAD TO SEND THE CHILDREN HOME SAID PRINCIPAL VJEKOSLAV BREZAR, BECAUSE THEIR FINGERS WERE STIFF WITH COLD. BUT THIS SARAJEVO WINTER WAS COMPARATIVELY MILD AND BRIEF, AND NINE YEAR OLD AVDIA, FOR ONE, WAS HAPPY TO BE BACK IN CLASS. HE EXCELS AT MATH AND ART BUT LIKE BOYS AROUND THE WORLD, HIS MAIN AMBITION IS TO BE A FOOTBALL (SOCCER) STAR. AVDIA ISN'T THE ONLY ORPHAN AT THE MALTA SCHOOL. AND MANY OF THE PUPILS ARE CHILDREN OF REFUGEES WHO HAVE FLED TO THE CAPITAL FROM OTHER PARTS OF THE COUNTRY. THERE ARE MUSLIM, CROAT AND SERB CHILDREN AT THE MALTA SCHOOL. TAPE: CUT # 6 -MUSIC FROM INDEPENDENCE CEREMONY (UP IN FULL AND UNDER) RUNS :41 TEXT: BOSNIA'S UNOFFICIAL NATIONAL ANTHEM (AT) AN INDEPENDENCE DAY CEREMONY AT A DOWNTOWN CONCERT HALL. IT WAS THE FIRST TIME THE EVENT WAS COMMEMORATED HERE. BOSNIA'S MUSLIM CHIEF OF STATE, ALIJA IZETBEGOVIC, WAS THE MAIN SPEAKER. BUT SERB AND CROAT MEMBERS OF THE COUNTRY'S COLLECTIVE PRESIDENCY WERE ALSO IN ATTENDANCE. RUSMIRA HADZIMULIC, A MUSLIM WOMAN IN HER 50'S SPENT THE HOLIDAY IN HER SMALL BUT COMFORTABLE APARTMENT IN THE HEART OF SARAJEVO'S OLD QUARTER. SHE, TOO, BELIEVES BOSNIA'S MUSLIMS, CROATS AND SERBS MUST LEARN TO LIVE TOGETHER AGAIN. OUT NEIGHBORS ARE SERBS, SHE SAID AND WE HELPED EACH OTHER THROUGH THESE TERRIBLE TIMES. BUT IF SARAJEVO'S MUSLIMS DISPLAY WARMTH AND AFFECTION FOR THE SERBS AND CROATS WHO HAVE SHARED THEIR ORDEALS DURING THE THREE YEARS OF WAR, THEY HAVE NOTHING BUT SCORN FOR WHAT THEY CALL THE "CHETNIKS IN THE MOUNTAINS", THE SERB GUNNERS WHO HAVE POUNDED SARAJEVO RELENTLESSLY FROM THE HILLS THAT RING THE CITY. WHEN THE WAR IS OVER, SAID RUSMIRA WE WILL WELCOME THE SERBS BACK, EXCEPT FOR THOSE WHO HAVE BLOODIED THEIR HANDS IN THE CONFLICT. BUT AS I LEFT SARAJEVO, THERE WAS NO SIGN THAT THE WAR WILL END ANYTIME SOON. SNIPERS WERE BACK IN ACTION ON BOTH SIDES OF THE FRONT. CART: BRIDGE THEME UP AND UNDER HOST: THAT WAS VOA'S DOUGLAS ROBERTS ON HIS RECENT VISIT TO SARAJEVO. NEXT WE GO TO CORRESPONDENT BARRY WOOD, WHO SAYS A HUGE FACTORY IN KOSICE IN THE GREEN HILLS OF EAST SLOVAKIA IS A VIVID REMINDER OF WHAT SOVIET CENTRAL PLANNING ON A GRAND SCALE LOOKS LIKE. BUT HE SAYS CLOSER EXAMINATION REVEALS A REMARKABLY SUCCESSFUL EXAMPLE OF THE TRANSITION TO A FREE MARKET ENTERPRISE: TAPE: CUT # 1 SOUND OF A BLAST FURNACE (UP AND UNDER) RUNS [:32] TEXT: WHEN I ARRIVED AT THE EAST SLOVAK IRON COMPLEX IN KOSICE, THE SKY HAD TAKEN ON A RED GLOW FROM THE FIRE OF THE BLAST FURNACES. SMOKE FROM THE BLAST FURNACES BELCHED FORTH FROM COAL, IRON AND ROCK COMING TOGETHER TO MAKE STEEL: TAPE: CUT # 2 SOUND OF A BLAST FURNACE (UP FULL & UNDER) RUNS [:22] TEXT: IT'S CALLED V-S-Z, OR -- VEH SHEH ZEH -- IN SLOVAK -- FOR EAST SLOVAK IRON WORKS. WITH 25 THOUSAND EMPLOYEES IS THE BIGGEST EMPLOYER IN THIS PART OF CENTRAL EUROPE. BUT THE SURPRISE IS THE NEWLY PRIVATIZED PLANT IS MODERN AND PROFITABLE AND ACCOUNTS FOR ABOUT 25 PERCENT OF SLOVAKIA'S TOTAL EXPORT EARNINGS. I TALKED WITH STEFAN LINK, A PHYSICIST BY TRAINING WHO HAS WORKED FOR V-S-Z FOR 33 OF HIS 57 YEARS. IN HIS CRAMPED OFFICE IN THE CENTER OF THE COMPLEX, HE EXPLAINED THE DECISION WAS MADE TO PLACE A HUGE METALLURGICAL COMPLEX IN KOSICE IN 1959 BECAUSE OF THE TOWN'S UNIQUE LOCATION: TAPE: CUT # 3 LINK ACK RUNS [:50] "IT IS ABOUT 20 KILOMETERS TO THE HUNGARIAN BORDER, ABOUT 80 TO UKRAINE AND ABOUT THE SAME DISTANCE TO POLAND. AND AS YOU KNOW, THE THE TRACK GUAGE IN RUSSIA IS DIFFERENT (WIDER) THAN IT IS IN EUROPE. SO ANOTHER DECISION WAS MADE, AND THAT WAS, TO BUILD A WIDE TRACK GUAGE LEADING DIRECTLY TO THE YARD AT OUR COMPANY. ONE OF THE REASONS THE PLANT WAS BUILT HERE IN THE EASTERN PART OF FORMER CZECHOSLOVAKIA WAS THAT AT A DISTANCE OF ABOUT 1100 KILOMETERS ARE HUGE DEPOSITS OF IRON ORE. SO, COMPARATIVELY EASILY, THOSE DEPOSITS OF IRON ORE IS TRANSPORTED DIRECTLY HERE." TEXT: HE THEN TOOK ME TO THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE COMPLEX, A GOOD TEN MINUTES AWAY WHERE A SINGLE WIDE-GUAGE SOVIET TRACK STRETCHED OFF THROUGH THE ROLLING FARMLAND TOWARDS THE UKRAINE BORDER. ON THAT LATE WINTER MORNING THERE WERE NO TRAINS. WE PARKED AND WALKED TOWARDS THE RAIL TERMINAL WHERE A LONE HOPPER CAR IS FILLED WITH UKRAINIAN ORE. TAPE: CUT # 4 LINK/WOOD RUNS [:46] "(LINK) SO LET'S GO AND HAVE A LOOK. (WOOD) SO THIS WOULD BE BRINGING THE ORE FROM? (LINK) FROM KRIVOG ROG IN UKRAINE. THE WAGON IS PULLED HERE INTO THIS ROTARY SKIPPER. THERE IS A SPECIAL FIXTURE. YOU CAN SEE THE WHEELS ARE LOCKED. AND THIS WHOLE EQUIPMENT IS TURNING AROUND SO THE IRON ORE PELLETS FALL DOWN INTO THE BELT CONVEYERS. SO IT IS TRANSPORTED IN THIS WAY FOR FURTHER PROCESSING." TEXT: EVEN THOUGH THIS PLANT IS RELATIVELY MODERN, THE WORK IS STILL HARD AND HOT. THE ROLLING MILL IS OVER A KILOMETER LONG AND MR. LINK AND I WALK FROM ONE END TO THE OTHER. TAPE: CUT # 6 BLAST FURNACE SOUND RUNS [:40] TEXT: AS I LEFT THE V-S-Z PLANT I COULDN'T HELP REFLECTING ON REVERSAL OF FORTUNES FOR THE STEEL WORKERS IN WESTERN EUROPE AND AMERICA WHO ARE THREATENED BY THIS NEW COMPETITION FROM THE EAST. PLANTS LIKE V-S-Z WHICH ARE MAKING A SUCCESSFUL TRANSITION, OFFERING STIFF COMPETITION TO STEEL WORKERS AND THE COMPANIES WHICH EMPLOY THEM IN WESTERN EUROPE AND ELSEWHERE. I LEARNED THAT THE STEEL WORKERS AT THIS PLANT ARE THE MOST HIGHLY PAID IN SLOVAKIA, EARNING 350 DOLLARS PER MONTH. THOSE WAGES--HIGH FOR THE EAST--ARE A TENTH OF THE CHEAPEST COMPETITIVE WAGE IN WESTERN EUROPE. THIS MEANS THAT SLOVAK STEEL, ALL OF WHICH IS MADE IN MODERN CONTINUOUS CASTERS, IS OF HIGH QUALITY AND FETCHES A HUGELY ADVANTAGEOUS PRICE ON WESTERN MARKETS. CART: BRIDGE THEME UP IN FULL AND UNDER HOST: THAT WAS CORRESPONDENT BARRY WOOD TELLING US ABOUT A RECENT VISIT HE MADE TO A STEEL PLANT IN EAST SLOVAKIA WHICH IS MAKING A SUCCESSFUL TRANSITION FROM CENTRAL STATE CONTROL TO PRIVATIZATION. FINALLY, WE GO TO WAYNE COREY IN VIENNA WHO HAS JUST RETURNED FROM A TRIP TO TIRANA, THE CAPITAL OF ALBANIA, ONCE EUROPE'S MOST RIGID ORTHODOX COMMUNIST STATE. IT IS A COUNTRY FEW WESTERN VISITORS HAVE SEEN: TEXT: IT MAY OR MAY NOT BE TRUE THAT IN ALBANIA THE MORE THINGS CHANGE, THE MORE THEY REMAIN THE SAME. BUT, SOME OF THE MOST VISIBLE SYMBOLS OF DECADES OF COMMUNIST RULE ARE STILL EVIDENT. ANTI-AIRCRAFT GUNS NEAR THE AIRPORT AND CONCRETE MILITARY BUNKERS AROUND THE AIRPORT AND IN THE FIELDS ALONG THE ROAD LEADING INTO TIRANA ARE EERIE REMINDERS OF THE BIZARRE PARANOIA THAT GRIPPED THIS COUNTRY'S COMMUNIST LEADERS. BUT, THE ANTI-AIRCRAFT GUNS ARE NOT MANNED NOW, AND THE CONCRETE BUNKERS ARE EMPTY. THE ONLY MILITARY PRESENCE TO BE SEEN IS A FEW ALBANIAN SOLDIERS IN UNIFORM WALKING ALONG THE STREETS OF TIRANA AND AN OCCASIONAL, AGING CHINESE OR SOVIET-MADE MILITARY TRUCK. WHILE THE ANTI-AIRCRAFT GUNS AND THE CONCRETE BUNKERS STILL GREET VISITORS, SO DOES THE SIGHT OF AN AMERICAN CAR RENTAL COMPANY, A COCA COLA SIGN AND A SIGN ADVERTISING AN AMERICAN EXPRESS TRAVEL OFFICE. TAPE: CUT # 1 TIRANA STREET NOISE RUNS [:12] TEXT: THERE HAS BEEN A BIG INCREASE IN THE NUMBER OF CARS IN TIRANA. IT'S TYPICAL OF THE AMBIGUOUS REALITY OF LIFE HERE, THOUGH, THAT HORSE-DRAWN CARTS LINE UP WITH CARS, TRUCKS AND MASSIVELY OVERCROWDED BUSES AT RED LIGHTS IN THIS DUSTY, SHABBY CITY. A MODERN NEW HOTEL IS EXPECTED TO OPEN FOR BUSINESS SOON ON SKANDERBERG SQUARE. THE HOTEL IS A GLEAMING, GLASS-FRONTED CONTRAST TO THE ARCHITECTUALLY-TASTELESS COMMUNIST-STYLE PALACE OF CULTURE WHERE AN ALBANIAN CAST PERFORMS ONE OF VERDI'S OPERAS, RIGOLETTO. AS A FORMER COLONIAL POWER, ITALY RETAINS A STRONG CULTURAL INFLUENCE HERE. SATELLITE TELEVISION DISHES, STICKING UP FROM SQUALID APARTMENT BUILDINGS, ENABLE THEIR OWNERS TO WATCH ITALIAN FOOTBALL (SOCCER). ITALIAN-STYLE COFFEE BARS ARE POPULAR, AND THERE ARE FRENCH, GERMAN AND CHINESE RESTAURANTS. AN ALBANIAN-AMERICAN COUPLE OWNS WHAT MANY PEOPLE CONSIDER TIRANA'S BEST RESTAURANT. TAPE: CUT # 2 LIVE RESTAURANT MUSIC RUNS [:18] TEXT: THE PIAZZA RESTAURANT OFFERS ITS WELL-DRESSED CLIENTS GOOD ITALIAN FOOD AND EXCELLENT ITALIAN WINE IN A CLEAN, MODERN AND COMFORTABLE ATMOSPHERE. IT'S THE ONLY RESTAURANT FOR WHICH RESERVATIONS ARE RECOMMENDED. THE OWNERS LIVE IN THE UNITED STATES. THEIR DAUGHTER MANAGES THE RESTAURANT. SHE TOLD ME IT TOOK A LOT OF PATIENCE IN DEALING WITH ALBANIAN GOVERNMENT AUTHORITIES TO GET THE RESTAURANT GOING A YEAR AGO. SHE SAID HER PARENTS' BUSINESS IS NOW DOING VERY WELL. FOR THE SAKE OF COMPARISON, I HAD DINNER THE FOLLOWING NIGHT IN THE RESTAURANT OF TIRANA'S MAIN HOTEL. THE HOTEL IS A BATTERED, OLD, COMMUNIST RELIC THAT IS GOING TO BE RENOVATED. IT OUGHT TO BE PRESERVED AS A KIND OF MONUMENT TO HUMAN FOLLY. AFTER COMPLETING THE UNAPPETIZING MAIN COURSE, I ORDERED AN ICE CREAM DISH FOR DESSERT. IT WAS LISTED ON THE MENU, BUT THE WAITRESS SAID "NO, WE DON'T HAVE IT." [ OPT ] I TRIED AGAIN. "WELL, HOW ABOUT THE ICE CREAM CAKE THEN?" NO, IT SEEMED THE RESTAURANT DID NOT HAVE THAT, EITHER. AFTER LOOKING AT THE MENU ONCE MORE, I POINTED TO A TORTE THAT WAS LISTED AND TOLD THE WAITRESS I WOULD LIKE THAT. THE WAITRESS WAS, AT LEAST, SYMPATHETIC, WHEN SHE REPLIED THAT THERE WERE NO MORE TORTES. [ END OPT ] IN FACT, SHE SAID, THERE WAS REALLY NOTHING FOR DESSERT AT ALL. SO, THE HOTEL LOST AN OPPORTUNITY TO MAKE SOME MONEY. I DOUBTED WHETHER THE COMMUNIST-ERA MANAGEMENT OF THE HOTEL HAS BEEN REPLACED. BUT, MANY ALBANIANS ARE CLEARLY IMPATIENT TO MAKE MONEY FAST, NOT JUST THE YOUNG CHILDREN WHO BEG ON THE STREETS. I REALIZED THIS AS SOON AS I WALKED INTO THE AIRPORT'S ARRIVAL SECTION. A YOUNG MAN, WITH WHAT APPEARED TO BE A SPECIAL PASS, WALKED UP TO ME AND ASKED IF I NEEDED A TAXI RIDE INTO TIRANA. I SAID YES. AFTER WE AGREED ON THE FARE, THE ALBANIAN OFFERED TO SPEED ME PAST ALL THE OTHER PEOPLE WAITING IN A LONG LINE FOR CUSTOMS AND IMMIGRATION CHECKS. I PROTESTED THAT IT WOULD NOT BE RIGHT TO CUT IN FRONT OF ALL THOSE PEOPLE. THIS DID NOT GO DOWN WELL WITH MY NEW ALBANIAN FRIEND. HE MUTTERED ONE WORD -- AMERICANS -- AS HE SHOOK HIS HEAD IN OBVIOUS, THOUGH GOOD-NATURED, DISAPPROVAL OF MY DESIRE TO BE POLITE. CART: THEME MUSIC UP TO FILL HOST: YOU HAVE BEEN LISTENING TO REPORTER'S NOTEBOOK, A WEEKLY PROGRAM FEATURING ONE OR MORE FIRST-HAND ACCOUNTS BY VOA REPORTERS WHO TAKE US BEHIND THE SCENES OF COVERING THE NEWS IN THEIR PART OF THE WORLD. I'M YOUR HOST, PAMELA TAYLOR. TODAY'S PROGRAM WAS PRODUCED BY BOB DOUGHTY AND DIRECTED BY FELICIA BUTLER. PROMO: NEXT WEEK ON REPORTER'S NOTEBOOK, WE WILL HEAR FROM DOUG BAKSHIAN ON HIS RECENT TRAVELS THROUGH FOUR CENTRAL ASIAN REPUBLICS. NEB/PAM/PCH 29-Mar-95 4:03 PM EST (2103 UTC) NNNN Source: Voice of America ------------------------------------------------------------------------------